STEP 2 - ACID WASHING / ETCHING
Unless your concrete surface is already porous, (which can be determined by pouring a cup of water in an area no more than 15 sq.ft. and watch to see if that water soaks into the surface of your concrete within 5-10 minutes.) You need to apply an acid wash. Muriatic acid, together with a broom, squeegee, hand trowels and a paddle mixer for your ½” drill can be purchased at Home Depot.
A muriatic acid solution diluted one-part acid to one-part water ratio will slightly etch your concrete when properly applied. Always use full respirator and follow all state and local requirements for safety and compliance when using any chemical. Also protect plants with an inexpensive plastic sheet (10’ X 20’ for $.99 at Home Depot). Muriatic acid dissipates at the approximate rate of 20% per minute, depending on mixture and temperature. NOTE: Acid will not work if oil residue remains!
RINSING
Always rinse with T.S.P. (Tri Sodium Phosphate) after an acid wash and always finish cleaning the process by rinsing with T.S.P. whether or not an acid wash was necessary.
DISPOSAL OF CLEANING FLUIDS
We use a 10 gal. wet shop vac, vacuum up fluids and take them to proper disposal sites in empty 5 gal. buckets (old material buckets).
REMEMBER: Only clean water can run down city gutters. Always follow all state, federal and local requirements. (You should mark your bucket lids for contents because disposal sites will need to know what you’re disposing.)
STEP 3 – REPAIRS / GRINDING
A good and permanent repair of all concrete surfaces is not possible unless you have followed Step 1 completely and been very thorough on the removal of any foreign material, such as oil, paint (or any coatings of any kind) will need grinding with a high speed grinder and a diamond blade to remove. Then follow Step 2 if surface is not already rough and porous. Sometimes you will only need to etch smooth spots.
What is Polacrete™? Polacrete™ is the only product of its kind that penetrates into porous surface while expanding and creating a catalytic reaction between the four major components of Polacrete™, which are:
| 1. |
A microscopic expanding polymer that absorbs acrylic, microscopic resins and pure cement and forms a chemical molly anchor in all pores of properly etched concrete. |
| 2. |
Microscopic resins added for strength and to aid in the catalytic reaction. |
| 3. |
A thin, penetrating acrylic, which carries the polymers and resins into the pores below the surface of properly cleaned and etched concrete. |
| 4. |
The highest grade of pure cement is added at a 1 to 10 ratio in order to not reduce the viscosity necessary to obtain penetration, but in the second formulation of these four ingredients, a thicker mixture is used. (See Instructions for Use) With both mixtures, you will get a catalytic reaction in approximately 20 mins. in warm weather (2 – 3 times slower in cold weather and it should not be used when air temperature is below 50 degrees.) An accelerator can be added to shorten drying time in cool weather. Warm water is also an accelerator on small jobs by adding warm water to each batch.
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REPAIRS – GETTING THEM SMOOTHER
Any bumps, pieces of previously dropped old concrete mixes and roughness protruding above the desired surface can be removed with a grinder or with a concrete hammer and chisel. All rough areas, cracks and low areas will first have Polacrete™ mixed in a very thin solution and applied with a brush or sponge 2 – 3 times until it has visibly begun soaking into surface. The mixture is 10 parts acrylic to 1 part Polacrete™ (powder mixture).
REPAIRS - DIFFERENT MIXTURES
A thicker and heavier mixture must be applied over first thin, penetrating mixture before first mixture dries to continue the fusion so that all material is connected to the first thin, penetrating and expanding material that has formed millions of molly anchors chemically and is the reason Polacrete™ can only be removed by taking some of the concrete surface it soaked into with it when properly applied. DO NOT LET FIRST MIXTURE DRY! The mixture of this thicker solution is 1½ part acrylic to 1 part Polacrete™ and 2 parts silica sand.
REPAIRS - APPLICATION
Experience with trowels and squeegees are a tremendous advantage if you are a first time Applicator. Practice on a small, out of the way spot or on a piece of plywood. Polacrete™ can be spread smoothly and evened out with a squeegee or hand trowel, depending on the surface desired. Color pigment may be added to the mixture for desired effect. Color pigments are also available (See Price List). First time Applicators should never attempt a driveway or large patio without the help of a professional Applicator or experienced contractor. After all cracks are filled, rough areas are smoothed and low areas are raised and this repair mixture has hardened. Any rough edges should be ground smooth with a high speed grinder and a diamond cupped blade (can be purchased at Home Depot). Now you are ready for resurfacing.
STEP 4 - RESURFACING
The resurfacing mixture viscosity is adjusted by the amount of acrylic added to one part Polacrete™ Part A (powder mixture), two parts silica sand, a No. 30 for pool decks or what requires absolute non skid surfaces, a No. 60 for a medium grade smooth surface and a No. 90 for a much smoother surface. Never have more than two parts silica sand to one part Part A. The result of this mixture gives you 3 times the amount of material to use and your cost for 100 lbs. of silica sand is approximately $5 - $6 at Home Depot.
The acrylic mixture, Polacrete™ Part B, is usually added at the ratio of 1½ parts to 1 Part A and 2 parts of silica sand for a thin, easy to use mixture, easily spread with a 24 in. squeegee. This new surface will never peel or come loose when properly applied and your concrete will look as good as new, if not better, when applied by a skilled Applicator. Call AMERICA’S BEST CONCRETE, INC. to ask if we have a factory-trained contractor in your area for large jobs (more than 200 sq.ft.)
STEP 5 - SAW CUTTING
The purpose of saw cutting is to weaken your concrete by making it easier to crack in the bottom of those cuts, instead of at random, in irregular patterns and out of control. Therefore, let’s call saw cutting with a concrete saw and diamond blade “stress cuts” for the purpose of relieving the stress, which accumulates in concrete through heat, causing your concrete to grow and expand when it is hot. Without “controlled cuts” you will have cracks if your concrete is in the sun for most of the day in a warm climate. Cracks can be repaired and concrete can be resurfaced and made to look new. But, you need to put in stress cuts (requiring a concrete saw with a diamond blade) no wider than 6 ft. apart in both directions and at least 2 in. deep.
STEP 6 – SEALING
AMERICA’S BEST CONCRETE, INC.ä strongly recommends the sealing of all concrete. Polacrete™ is denser, therefore, harder with a higher PSI than normal concrete and less susceptible to staining from oil, paint, drinks, ground in dirt, etc. Sealing is a good investment to protect your new finish. Sealers come in a wide range of prices, colors and types. Let’s keep it simple and tell you that we do not believe in color sealers because the color is too easily worn off as the sealer is worn off. It also fades in traffic areas faster. Our experience has proven to us at AMERICA’S BEST CONCRETE, INC that color should be added into Polacrete™ at the time of resurfacing. (See Instructions for Use)
If color pigment is added to Polacrete™, it will cost you about $.01 - $.02 per sq.ft. and saves the labor of an extra step. It also allows you to seal as soon as Polacrete™ has hardened.
The most commonly used sealer is a thin, penetrating acrylic sealer. It is the easiest to apply and most cost effective. It can be sprayed from a garden sprayer, a regular paint sprayer or applied with a roller or a sponge. The key to applying penetrating sealers is to not overdo it. One gallon should cover approximately 300 – 400 ft., depending on the porosity. Remove any puddles (less can be best!
The other sealer we recommend is a clear, two-part epoxy for garage floors, inside entry, concrete floors, concrete counters, showers, etc. It is best applied with a roller and brush and should be applied liberally. A two-part kit makes 1½ gallons and covers approximately 200 - 250 ft. Make sure you either buy the correct epoxy rollers from a local supply house or at Home Depot. A poor quality roller will greatly affect your job. (Check Price List)
